The Original Jimmy Jig/combination mortice-tenon Jig
Note/For visual effects not all of the safety devices have been installed or utilized on the OJJ, regarding the individual presentations. Be diligent when operating woodworking machinery, use push sticks when appropriate and wear safety glasses.(I reserve the right to be wrong. Should you prove me wrong, I reserve the right to change my mind.) Easily adapted on the Jimmy Jigs stationary fence giving accurate mortices and tenons, has spring loaded vertical plunge and left to right travel for the mortice length, height adjustment is with the router and the straight bit raised on the router poles
rebound strength of the spring within the pipe, (trial and error) the spring rests on the top screw through the pipe. Through the spring is placed a suitable wooden dowl or rod to which is attached the angle bracket by the way of suitably placed drilled hole in the metal.
Your fence travel will be adjusted for the size of the tenon and position of the mortice
Use this text in conjunction by viewing the video, macduff aye ready, slainte mhath.
required to which is fashioned the angle bracket to utilize the spring mechanism within the plastic pipe, which is slotted to take the spring. The spring has to recoil about 2ins or more.
The spring is sized for rebound strength and length, the plastic pipe is attached to the perpendicular back centrally placed on the back side, when this pipe is attached by the way of two screws through the back the screws are so placed to adjust the height an
material used, ( for the plunge panel) these grooves have to set back the thickness of the spacer (this spacer block has to be just proud of the front of the two guide rails to allow the fence to by pass the rails, (the fence being attached to this spacer block, placed and attached with screws on the plunge panel for material being machined, also when the plunge is in action, to which you place the toggle clamps. Another support block is
To this sliding mechanism, a perpendicular back is attached 18*16ins, the attached distance will have to coincide, to and dependant on where on the table top you can place the router, which has to be centrally placed within the jig. To the back, on the outside edges, attach two guide rails about 3 to 3 1/2in wide, these will be grooved at the front to take the vertical panel for the plunge mechanism, depending on the thickness of the
The Combi- mortice and tenon jig
Depending on the type of fence you have. The jig slides on the fence and is made to straddle the fence from any plywood or MDF, Tight fit but slideable, the unit is about 18ins. long and 16ins high, this can vary (macduff has a no lift action within the fence t-slots) this will vary with different fences
So many times the wood is moved into the cutter (ie. the use of a tablesaw or table mounted router). I believe that you will just have to be careful. Is this any different that using the horizontal router table and making a plunge cut – I don’t think so.
salute ur innovation.perfect work and so easy to make this jig and very cheap.i wanted to buy leigh tennon jigs which gonna cost me 1000us$ dolars but this one gonna cost me just less than 100us$.
This is as versatile as a Woodrat, and a darn sight easier to use. I reckon with a means of angling the workpiece, you could cut dovetails on this set -up. Nice work.
Fidel Listeros
I was designing and building my own jig this morning when I ran into this video. This jig is so much easier and better working than what I had in mind that I took it all apart and now I’m building exactly this one. I’m always amazed why people critize innovation, I’d take my hat off anytime to anyone who can come up with these ideas!. Excellent jig.
I can appreciate how creative the jigs are. i would never think of such ideas.
now give me a 75mm tenon for a door rail !!!!
do your self a favour –get yourself a radial arm saw or even a dado cutter for a table saw
For the record – I don’t sell anything. I like my Motorized Router Lift system, and I try and get others to MAKE one for themselves.
But he made this with scrap, and eaglelake wants to sell you something. Hos is this bad practice? His hands are are kept very clear of the bit.
Also, why not use your toggle clamp when in tennon mode?
I agree with Eaglelakewoodworking, much safer moving the bit/cutter into the wood this is bad practice.
This is cool.
I just barely started using a plunge router but I aleady know that it is one hell of a versatile tool.
Used it for squaring up the edges of a wood plank that I built in my electric guitar and for routing the nest of that same plank.
The thing fit perfectly. Have a video of it too.
May I suggest you build a motorized router lift like mine, and bring the bit into the work rather than vice versa?
Check out this video EagleLakeWoodworking Dot Com and you’ll see what I mean.
cant use that for making doors.
Thank you for the docs. I’ve got lots to build now but my table saw will never be the same!
hammerofharpel, macduff just made the jig oot o’ his heid (head) don’t need plans, but you can go to my web page and e-mail macduff from there, will type up a wee bit o’ instructions for ye if ye can read Gaelic English
Do you have a plan for this jig. It’s amazing!